Hiking Half Dome

August 2012

I'm not sure if it was because this is a leap year, but Leesi and I were able to check off one of our bucket list items this month - hiking Half Dome in Yosemite National Park.  We had been to the top of Nevada Falls before, and always talked of hiking Half Dome, but it took us many years to make it happen.

It started back in February when Leesi suggested we finally take the hike to Half Dome.  After some quick online research I learned that we would need to get a permit to hike Half Dome - in order to access the cables for the final 400 foot ascent.  The deadline for the permit lottery is in March, so we quickly chose some dates and put in our request.  We requested the full allotment of six passes, not knowing if the kids might want to join us.  In mid-March we learned we received a permit for August 23 and our plans began.
We continued our research about the hike and what to expect and prepare for.  Some of the reviews and photos we observed gave us second thoughts, but we persevered.  A couple of trips to the local sport shops were in order for supplies and hiking boots for Leesi.  Arrangements were made for lodging in Curry Village the night of August 22 so we could be close by for an early morning departure.

The summer raced by so we completed our training by taking some long distance hikes on three consecutive Saturdays before the hike for 10, 7 and 8 miles in the local hills and neighborhood.  The kids were not able to join us so we embarked on the journey ourselves.

August 22

Wednesday August 22 we left home mid-morning, stopped along the way for lunch and arrived at the Tunnel View of Yosemite Valley at about 4:30 pm.  After checking in at registration, locating our tent-cabin, walking over to locate the trail head and eating a full dinner (including pasta for Emily!), we got to bed about 9:00 pm.

 August 23

The alarm went off at 3:15 am and we were both quick to arise.  We got dressed, packed our belongings, checked our hiking gear and headed to the car.  After dropping the tent-cabin keys off at registration we drove to the trail parking lot which is one-half mile from the trail head.  Leaving the car in the dark we began our walk to the trail head using headlamps for light and arrived at the Mist Trail at 4:20 am.  The first mile was on a paved trail to the first footbridge over the Merced River and the first restroom and only potable water source where we filled our water bottles.  Walking over the rushing water in the dark was a bit ominous.

Passing by, we did not see Vernal Falls, but we certainly heard them!  We had a couple of unplanned detours as the trail route was unclear in the dark, but we finally made it back to the main trail.  Our hike continued in the dark for several miles until about 6:30 am when dawn was upon us.  Looking behind us occasionally we could see intermittent groups of headlamps from fellow hikers.

We took advantage of the second and final restroom after we crested the steps up to Nevada Falls along with a growing number of fellow hikers.  Sunrise was shortly thereafter at 7:00 am on the John Muir Trail in Little Yosemite Valley.  The valley was quiet as the Merced River just slithers quietly through this section.  We passed a deer browsing on the grass that seemed not to care about those of us on the trail.  A bit further down the trail we got our first view of the back side of Half Dome.  I pointed out to Leesi what I thought was the worn path where the cables were located.  Later we learned, much to our chagrin, I was right.

Passing through the valley the trail began ascending the slopes through a forest of mature pines, cedars and firs.  About a mile up the gradual hill we stopped for a rest, water and a bran muffin for breakfast.  After the break we continued on the trail up the hill through the trees, leaving the John Muir Trail and taking the Half Dome Trail until we finally arrived at the base of the subdome.

The subdome.  Unless you've been there, or read about it, you can't appreciate the difficulty of the subdome granite steps.  After hiking for over seven miles and gaining about 4,500 feet in elevation, we were now faced with what seemed like an unending number of steps.  It was like climbing a set of stairs where each step is twice as high as typical.  And at an elevation of almost 8,000 feet, the air feels just a bit thin and the oxygen even thinner.

After many stops, rests and breathtaking views (Leesi was trying not to look down!), we crested the subdome only to be faced with the cable ladder of Half Dome.  It was now 9:22 am.  We had been on the trail for five hours.  Was it the weariness of hiking, the lack of sleep, the lack of oxygen, or was our assessment correct that Half Dome was not meant for human travel?  The narrow bridge of granite between the subdome and Half Dome, and the angle of the "trail" to the top of Half Dome did not seem physically possible to walk on.  We were right.  That's why the cables are there.  You literally half to pull yourself up the Dome using the cables.  The angle is as steep as 45 degrees, perhaps as much as 52 degrees, and worn and slippery from years of hikers struggling to get to the top.

After a few moments of additional assessment, we began the ascent of the final 400 feet up the cables - Leesi first then I followed.  It started out difficult, then got harder.  About a third of the way up, Leesi's boots kept slipping - not good.  She kept pulling on the cables and gradually got enough traction to move up one set of cable poles at a time - about 12 feet apart.  Half way up is where the angle is so steep its all you can do to stay upright.  Leesi moved ahead of me as I had to stop to rest.  I sat down, placed my boots against the 2x4 between a pair of cable poles, sat down and looked down the cables.  Yikes!  What a time to remember the hike to Half Dome is rated the most dangerous and strenuous day hike you can take.  After a few moments I found my breath and made my way to the top of the cables to meet Leesi.  After another rest and some water, we completed our hike to the top of Half Dome to join about 30 fellow hikers and enjoy our accomplishment and the view.  It was now 10:40 am.

And what a view indeed!  After hiking for six hours, covering over eight miles, passing two waterfalls, climbing almost 5,000 feet and extending ourselves to near exhaustion in order to reach our intended goal, it was nice to enjoy the moment, the view and the amazing work of our Creator.  Leesi was daring enough to lay down and take a peek over the edge to look at the valley below.  I pulled out my camera and took a 360 degree video of the view around us.  The sky was clear - not a cloud in sight.  The air - though thin - was calm...not even a slight breeze.  We then sat down for some more water, a bit to eat and a short rest in preparation for our descent.  Leesi was able to get a signal on the cell phone and called both girls to inform them of our successful ascent. 

There was a bit of camaraderie amongst the hikers atop Half Dome, which was particularly noticeable while passing each other up and down the cables.  Words of encouragement and support were commonplace.  It was a pleasant change from the daily grind of competition in daily life.

We gathered our gear, put everything away and headed back to the top of the cables.  As we approached the cables and peered down the rounded back side of the solid granite Half Dome, it again did not seem physically possible to walk the route.  I was reminded of those slides at water parks that are so steep your body barely stays in contact with the slide as you flail downward.  It certainly looked much longer than only 400 feet.  Too steep.  Too slippery.  Too narrow.  Too risky.  Were we deceived by the angle of the surrounding granite slopes? And then we started down...step by step, hand over hand, one section of cable poles at a time, while squeezing through the now steady stream of hikers on their way up.

We made it down the cables and reached the bottom without incident at about 11:20 am.  After a moment of reflection, we headed over to the subdome preparing for the daunting granite steps down to the forest below.   With legs tired and quivering we managed to negotiate the subdome trail using caution and patience.  Fearing it would be much worse, for some reason, though challenging, it was not as difficult as it seemed on the way up.  Once at the bottom we encountered the park ranger who was checking permits and logging in hikers on his iPad!  He said he had arrived late as he was chasing a bear in the early morning from the backpackers' camp in Little Yosemite Valley.

After a brief discussion with the ranger, we headed down the dirt Half Dome trail back through the forest to the John Muir Trail and Little Yosemite Valley.  The temperature was now much warmer than the hike up, with much less shade, and even though difficult at the time, we were very thankful for our early morning start.  Our feet, legs and backs were aching and our energy was fading, but at least the remainder of the hike was downhill.

 
At the top of Nevada Falls we chose the alternate trail route down the south side of the Merced River that was a bit longer and with more switchbacks, but with fewer steps.  After leaving the falls the trail seemed to continue on and on, back and forth through the granite rocks and forest.  We passed an increasing number of hikers -- some heading to Half Dome, others backpacking beyond on the John Muir Trail, and a larger number on the shorter hike to the falls -- and even a guided horseback riding tour.

We gradually made our way down the switchbacks to the footbridge crossing the Merced River on the Mist Trail.  We again stopped to rest, use the restroom and get a drink from the water fountain.  When we left this very spot some 11-1/2 hours earlier, it was dark and there were only four other hikers nearby.  Now, at 4:00 pm there were at least 50 hikers milling about.  After 15 minutes, we again gathered our gear and headed down the last mile of paved trail back to the trail head.  We arrived back at the trail head at 4:35 pm - 12 hours and 15 minutes after we left.  WE MADE IT! 

The remaining one-half mile down the road to the parking lot was level and shaded, but the pavement was sure hard on the feet!  About half way back Leesi pointed out a critter making its way across the road -- a bobcat!  I pulled out my video camera and was able to view it sauntering down a side trail just before it wandered into the forest.

Once at the parking lot I was relieved to see no broken windows in the car (ask me about a previous trip to Yosemite!).  We loaded up our gear, called Emily to confirm our safe return, then headed to the Curry Village General Store to buy our "I made it to the top of Half Dome" T-shirts.  Shouldn't they just give us one?  Oh well, back to the car and down to the San Joaquin Valley we headed.

We were planning to spend the night in Fresno and enjoy a leisurely drive home on Friday, but after calling Emily (to tell her of our safe return) we learned that Leesi needed to be back home by morning for an unplanned meeting, so back to Thousand Oaks it was.  After a quick dinner in Oakhurst, gas and a short nap in Kingsburg, we returned home at 2:30 am Friday.  Wow - now that was a "trip".

What's next?  How about Mount Whitney?